New Construction Installation Manual
Recommendations and best practices for central vacuum installation in new construction homes.
You can use basic low voltage valve backing plates or electric valves. (Hayden SuperValve backing plates have an attached J-Box for your electrician to run 110 volts to for the power brush which draws 2 amps. If you use the SuperValve, you need to use a Direct-Connect Stealth Hose/Kit.)
After the house has been wired and plumbed, but before the dry wall is installed, is the best time to pipe in a central vacuum tubing system. Locate the inlet valve locations and nail the mounting plate to the nearest stud. Make sure the middle of the mounting plate is at the same height as the middle of adjacent electrical outlets.
It is best to offset the tubing using a combination of a tight 90 degree fitting and a 45 degree elbow. This will avoid problems of mounting screws puncturing the tubing as well as allowing the hose to be drilled further away from the stud where nails could run the hose saw. Drill a 2-1/2" hole in the center of the top or sole plate depending on the location of the trunk line. Attach a low voltage wire to the tubing and push the tubing through from the floor below and cement it to the forty-five degree fitting. Leave ten inches of low voltage wire at the mounting plate for valve installation when the house is completed.
Once the house is completed, the inlet valves must be installed. Bare a half inch of the low voltage wire leads and wrap them in a clock-wise direction around the lugs on the back of the valve. Tighten the lugs with a screwdriver and, using a twisting motion, insert the valve into the hole with the hinge at the top of the valve. Do not apply glue! The gasket in the mounting plate will provide a positive seal. If the valve will not reach the mounting plate, ask your dealer for an inlet valve extension. Use the screws supplied, attach the inlet valve to the mounting plate. Use the extra short screw if the longer version is going to penetrate the tubing behind.