Central Vacuum Rough-in Installation
A outline of parts and steps for building your own central vacuum installation rough-in kit.

Build a rough-in central vacuum system installation kit for traditional inlet valves.
Table of Contents
Step 1: Pipe, Connectors, Low Voltage Wire
Inlet Valve Placement Considerations
- Place an inlet near the base of a stairway as it is easier to vacuum going up the stairs.
- You may want your vacuum hose to reach a porch or deck.
- Consider an inlet in the garage, attic, or basement.
Installation Part Descriptions
Part # | Photo | Description | Qauntity* | Notes |
---|---|---|---|---|
#501 | ![]() |
Tight 90 Ell | X 1 | Goes only on the backing plate (that the inlet cover attaches to). It will be the tightest turn in the system and therefore catch anything long and stiff right at the inlet valve. |
#502 | ![]() |
Sweep 90 Ell | X 3 | The most used fitting for routing vac pipe. The Sweep Ell has a more gradual 90 degree turn than the Tight 90 and is better for air flow. |
#503 | ![]() |
Spigot Sweep 90 Ell | X 1 | One end of a spigot fitting fits into another fitting. Great for tight spaces. |
#504 | ![]() |
45 Ell | X 2 | Use these for offsets and thus use less Sweep 90's. |
#505 | ![]() |
Spigot 45 Ell | X 1 | One end of a spigot fitting fits into another fitting. Great for tight spaces and for offsets. Here is a plumber's secret - a regular 45 and a spigot 45 together can make any angle. |
#507 | ![]() |
Coupling | X 5 | Fits pipe sections together. |
#508 | ![]() |
Sweep Tee | X 1 | ![]() |
#512 | ![]() |
Pipe Strap | X 3 | Pipe straps are used most often under homes, in basements, and when pipe is exposed in closets on some existing home installations. |
#513 | ![]() |
Pipe Collar | X 1 | Used primarily in existing home installations when and if the pipe penetrates any walls. Makes the installation look clean. Remember to slide it over the pipe and wire before gluing. |
#518 | ![]() |
Exhaust Vent | X 1 | If you are venting a ventable central vacuum unit, you will need one or two of these vents. |
#519 | ![]() |
Plaster Guard (two in a pack) | X 1 | Plaster guards are used in new construction installations to protect the backing plate from the drywall process. |
#523S | ![]() |
Steel Stub | X 1 | When penetrating a fire block wall check local codes. Usually this steel stub connected to couplings and vacuum pipe will do. Glue with rubber cement. Fire rings are available too. |
#521-10 (10 8ft sections) #520-10 (10 4ft sections) #520-4 (4 4ft sections) |
![]() |
PVC Pipe | 20ft | Vacuum pipe, or tubing, is made specifically for central vacuum systems. It is thin wall PVC with a 2-inch outer diameter fitting perfectly into vacuum fittings creating a smooth turn so no objects can "catch an edge". When gluing, use PVC cement on the pipe end only and push into the fitting with a slight turn. No glue residue will be inside the pipe. |
New Construction Electric Inlets #663HW |
![]() |
SuperValve | X 1 | SuperValve comes with both the rough-in mounting plate (to which an electrician runs Romex from a nearby source) and the inlet cover plate to put on after drywall and paint. Low voltage wire is ran to the inlet as well. |
Existing Construction Electric Inlets #526L Can be used in New Construction as well. |
![]() |
ElectraValve | ElectraValve comes with the mounting plate and Romex wire (that an electrician needs to tie into 110 volts). Low voltage wire is ran to the inlet as well. For existing installation simply cut the metal section off the backing plate. Finish with an ElectraValve cover, pictured. | |
New or Existing Construction Non-electric Inlets #517 |
![]() |
3 in 1 Backing Mounting Plate |
The mounting plate doesn't incorporate any 110 volts, only low voltage wire. You will also need a Basic Inlet Valve Faceplate (pictured) | |
#540 | ![]() |
Low Voltage Wire | 30ft | You will need approximately 30 feet of 20/2 low voltage wire per vacuum inlet. |
#545 | ![]() |
Wire Ties | 5 | Strap the low voltage wire to the pipe at each major elbow and every 4-feet. |
#670PW | ![]() |
VacPan (toe tick automatic dustpan) | Usually one in the kitchen | This very popular add-on is a bit more difficult to install than a traditional inlet but worth the effort. You need the installation supplies above as for any other inlet valve. |
Pipe, Fittings, and Wire Purchase Lists
Estimated Pipe, Fittings, and Wire for New Construction and Existing Homes. Links 1 through 8 below will pull up the estimated quantities where you can edit the quantities and add to cart.
Remember to add all toe-kick inlets to the number of regular inlets. This will give you the total amount of inlets.
For more than eight inlets, add two numbers to the cart (one at a time). Make sure to continue to steps 2 and 3 for inlet valves and more.
Installation Supplies
Step 2: Choose Inlet Valve Type, Style, and Color
The installation supplies connect to the inlet valve backing plate. The backing plate receives an inlet valve cover. All inlets below can be used in existing and new construction homes.
Types of Vacuum Inlet
Basic Inlet Valves
Easiest to install and the least expensive.
Remember to buy #517 backing mounting plates on Basic Inlet Valve page. Use an attachment kit that is air powered or electric powered (hose has an eight foot pigtail cord that comes out of the wall end of the hose and plugs into a nearby electrical outlet). Shop Basic Inlet Valves
Electric Inlet Valves
More complex installation and higher cost than a basic inlet, but perfect for homes with carpeting necessitating electric vacuum head grooming.
Backing / mounting plate is included. The inlet cover is not included with ElectraValves but available on the page. Use an attachment kit that is air powered or electric powered (hose has direct connect pins for voltage connection at the vacuum inlet). Shop Electric Inlet Valves
Toe-Kick Dustpan Inlets
You will love to use (and show visitors) the toe-kick sweep inlet. Simply sweep debris right into the central vacuum. It's so easy, and really handy. Put one in the kitchen, and possibly the bathrooms and mud room. Shop Toe-Kick Inlets
Other Installation Considerations
Penetrating a Fire Block Wall
Some state and county codes will not allow PVC penetration of fire block walls. If your local code permits block wall penetration, use a 6-inch piece of steel or a 3M Fire Stop Ring. See fire block options here.
Using Helpful Installation Tools
Smooth transitions are essential in preventing a system clog. Remember to cut straight and debur all cut edges. To ensure straight cuts, use a miter box, or for better results use a PVC cutter. Here are tools you can buy online for a professional installation. Also listed is a 2 9/16 hole hog bit for large drills. Vacuum PVC is 2 inch OUTER diameter, but you will need a larger hole than that in your stud bay to run necessary low voltage (and possibly 110 volt ) wires along the PVC pipe.
Low Voltage Wire
The low voltage wire from step one turns the vacuum suction on and off. It will run to each inlet and back to the main canister unit. The 20-gauge wire can be spliced and/or daisy chained to a 'home run' wire back to the unit.
Step 3: Vacuum Unit and Accessory Attachment Kit
Once the rough-in is completed and the home finished, it is time for the central vacuum unit and accessory attachment kit. We recommend purchasing these items through a local dealer.
Central Vacuum Units
MD Central Vacuum has several models to choose from. Designed and assembled in the USA, these powerful, clean vacuums are the result of 50 years of engineering passion. They are only available and priced through your local dealer. Find your central vacuum unit here.
Accessory Attachment Kits
The last and probably most important decision is what hose and tools will be used to clean your home and utilitze the central vacuum installation. There are a variety of attachment kits available to meet your specific home's cleaning needs. Find your attachment kit here.