Motor can run. With the vacuum motor running and visible, you will want to be able to see the commutator (the top part of the armature) spinning and the motor brushes that are up against it. It is normal for there to be a slight blue spark right at the carbon brush - but if the blue spark is large and wraps around the commutator then you will need to replace the carbon brushes (if the commutator on the armature is seriously damaged, you will need to replace the motor). The most common cause of excessive sparking is an old motor that is beginning to fail. The armature is blackened, pitted, and scared with build up. The brushes may still have life (are longer than 3/16 inch) but the armature, sometimes spurred on by a not-so-tight bearing, is being damaged. It is true that the motor may just need new brushes if one or both are less than 3/16 inch long (the black carbon is 3/4 inches long when new) and the armature is pretty much completely smooth and the bearing solid. Get help removing the brushes for length inspection below.Accessing and Replacing the Motor Brushes
Motor cannot run. If the motor is not running (many times a motor goes bad in the way a car runs out of gas) a couple of things may have happened. First, the motor brushes may have just been worn out and can no longer conduct electricity. Check to make sure the armature is not scored or grooved. If it is, replace the motor. If not, replace the brushes - it may save you big bucks if that solves the problem. Secondly, and most frequently, when the brushes are worn, they damage the armature. At around 19,000 RPM, this ruins the bearings and the motor is shot. You will need to replace the motor. ALSO, when a motor goes bad the minibreaker(s), at times, is compromised. When you replace a motor and the minibreaker pops, most likely that is the reason and you will have to replace the minibreaker(s). The minibreakers we sell are universal; simply choose a minibreaker that has at least the amps of the one you are replacing (for example, if replacing a 13 amp, buy a 15 amp, not a 10 amp).
The typical length of the carbon on new brushes is 3/4 inches. When it gets down to 3/16 inches, the brush assembly should be replaced. But if the armature is pitted or the bearing is wobbly, then replace the motor. Motors are made to be replaced after 800-900 hours of use.
On motors that have a black, plastic, pop-off top without screws, such as 116336, 119413, 119412, 117939, 116765, 116296, 117944, 116764, 116945, 117123, 116472, or 116355, remove this black cooling fan cover to expose the screws that hold the motor brushes down. (The cover pops right off). Note that sometimes there may be channels directly to the screw head so the top will not have to come off to gain access.
On the 115330, 115334, 115519, 115684, 116119, and 116136, motor you would remove the small screw in the sheet metal cover around the exterior circumference of the armature region. This will expose the brushes and the two screws that hold them down. Since the screws are located under the top shield, you can either use a small socket or angle your screwdriver to remove the screws that hold the brushes down.
On the Premier motor (and plastic versions of it), such as 116465, 117465, 116507, 117507, 117157, 117743, 117478, 117572, 117500, or 117502, you will not need to remove any screws to release the motor brushes. First remove a retainer clip on the top of the motor by prying it up with a flat head screwdriver and then the motor brushes will pop right out the side of the motor.
Some motor brushes are held in with a clip that you have to bend out of the way.Bend the clip out and then up to access the brush. Bend the clip back into position before putting the plastic cover back on. These pictures show these steps: