77.5ft PVC Central Vac Pipe (ten 7'-9" tubes) Q&A

Yes, this is the pipe used in all HAH systems. The connections are different though. They are longer for a more gradual turn. You can find them here https://builtinvacuum.com/hide-a-hose/parts.html

The older diameter of 1 3/4" pipe has not been produced for central vacuum systems for several decades. Current pipe has an industry standard diameter of 2". We do carry a 1.75" adapter. You can find the adapter and all parts needed to update your pipe line here, https://builtinvacuum.com/install_shop/pipe-fittings.html

Hi, please to not run any wire inside central vacuum piping. When used for central vacuums the wire is usually strapped to the pipe every 5 feet or so.

Hi, all central vacuum piping and elbows are available in steel. The steel fits the PVC fittings and pipe as well. Please call for pricing.

Hi Nathan, the grey central vacuum pipe (2-inch outer diameter) will work perfectly with the white central vacuum pipe and fittings. You can connect flex hose directly over the central vacuum pipe but when it connects back to pipe it has a lip that will catch debris and can cause a clog. Whenever possible use central vacuum PVC. If you need any more help please let us know.

Hi, we only sell the central vacuum pipe in the quantities seen online. Sorry.

Hi, yes, regular PVC Cement is all that is needed for all the PVC central vacuum pipe connections. Don't glue the pipe to the vacuum unit. If you have any metal in the system for fire codes or whatever then use rubber cement on that PVC to metal connection.

Hi, yes, our pipe, fittings, and inlets are all compatible with all Vaculine parts.

Hi, the reason not to use regular PVC such as schedule 40 (SCH40) is foremost that it is a different measurement. Regular is measured 2 ID and central vac pipe is measured 2 OD. The two and all their connections in a system are not compatible. Just as important are these reasons. 1) It is designed for water flow not air flow which means it is not as smooth and creates tremendous friction loss. That means less effective vacuuming. 2) The regular PVC is not created for seamless junctions with its turns and elbows. That means the chances of clogging sky rocket. 3) It will not fit into the backing plate for the wall inlet ports. 4) It is substantially heavier and will put undesired stress on the backing plate as the pipe hangs on it from below or pushes down on it from above. The backing plate was not intended for that stress and is not thick like the 3/16 regular PVC. Central vacuum tubing is 1/16 thick. 5) From an installers perspective it is expensive, harder to cut and burr, and is less flexible which means more elbows and even more friction loss. (Friction loss with central vacuum pipe is just a few percent.) We hope that helps you understand why so few promote regular PVC. It is good for them because they don't have to hassle with pipe while selling units to customers who will ultimately have a less then perfect installation. Let us know if you have any more questions.

Hi, if the pipe is indeed 2-inch OD and 1/16 thick then you are good to go with all the standard central vacuum fittings and backing plates for inlets found on MD's website.

Hello Jennifer, sorry to here the installation didn't go well. If at all possible those joints should be cut out and redone using some coupling, elbow, and central vacuum pipe. Stopping the leak is just as important as preventing clogs which means the interior of the pipe needs to be fitting together to remove an ridges or seams.

Completely different. Central Vac pipe is just the right size for get a ridgeless interior to prevent clogs. It fits that perfectly into the central vacuum PVC connector elbows and wall inlet backing plates. Central vacuum PVC is 1/16th inch thick (quite thin) and its outer diameter is 2 inches, not its inner diameter as SCH40 is measured. Be sure to use Central Vacuum PVC.

Hello Mike, yes and yes on our pipe and fittings. Thanks for asking. Our manager was part of the committee writing the standard.

The pipe is a thin 1/16 wall. OD is 2 , ID is 1-7/8 .

Hello, we don't ship the 10ft lengths because of costs. If you want more information please call us.

Try using a gate valve (found at RV supply stores for the waste water).

Yes, couplings connect these pipes together, as well as 90's, 45's, etc. They don't have a bell end as some pipes do that allow them to go into each other. In fact, the bell end pipes will clog because the connection is not smooth, but stepped, unlike a coupling connection would be.

Not recommended because the connection to the inlet backing plate will not be smooth.