Square Door Basic Wall Central Vacuum Inlet Q&A

Yes, all inlets sold here include screws with the matching color head.

That is the sad truth. The Kenmore 1-1/4" diameter inlets are no longer available. Read the text at the top of this page to get a good understanding of your options https://builtinvacuum.com/help/kenmore/inlets.html. And let us know if you have questions.

Those inlets are not available any longer. You may be able to use industry standard basic inlets if you can do two things. First, the two screw holes are 4" apart instead of 3-3/8" so you'll have to be able to screw into your backing plate about 5/16" further apart. Second, the round opening in the backing plate has to be around 1-5/8" wide for the new inlet to fit into. If you have these two things then use any of our Basic Inlets.

If the hose you are using has two metal prongs on the wall end that insert directly into the inlet, then use an electric valve. A hose with a cord, or no prongs, will use a basic valve.

Yes, replace the inlet with the full face basic inlet. Or you can try turning the hose 180-degrees. The metal plates on the hose end may like that fit better.

Electrolux used standard inlets, either low voltage or low voltage and high voltage. The replacements we have here are the same standard ones https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets_shop.html. All our hoses and kits fit these inlets. Start here to determine what you'd like in your home that is best for cleaning and your budget https://builtinvacuum.com/help/electrolux.html.

Yes, you can use the following backing plate and tight 90 along with regular pipe and fittings. This will allow you to put a Basic Inlet into a 2x3 wall. Thanks for asking https://builtinvacuum.com/retail/shopretail.php?part_no=511MP,511SN.

The metal nubs should be stiff. It sounds like the hose is too tight. Is it new? If it has two metal plates vs a metal ring, you can shave a bit of plastic off the hose end to get a better fit. If you need more help give us a call.

All inlets have small low voltage wires connected to the back of them. When they are touched together the suction should start. Inside the 1-1/2" diameter suction hole are two metal contacts that when touched together with foil start the suction. If neither of these start the suction then the wire in the wall may have been cut. Hung any pictures lately?

Please read the text on the Basic Inlet page to understand if a modern valve will fit or not. Please see https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html

Is it the suction or an electric head that is intermitent? If the suction then it is a low voltage issue you have to trace. If electric then there is a short somewhere. Call us if you can't find it.

You do not need to change your inlets. All our electric kits come ready to be used as your system stands. Take a look at this photograph and explanation. All our electric kits come with direct connect or corded hoses https://builtinvacuum.com/images/DirCnt-Corded-large.jpg. You simply need the corded version of an electric kit. You don't drag around any cords, the wires are in the lightweight hose. Just plug the hose into the vacuum port and the cord into a nearby electrical outlet. It is that easy. A whole lot easier than what you'd have to do to make your inlets direct connect (opening the walls up .... not fun or easy). We are glad you asked this question because many homeowners need to learn about this super easy option for a much cleaner home! Here are the kits that fit your system, and all systems with 1-1/2 inch diameter, non electric inlets, in any brand https://builtinvacuum.com/comparison.html

Use the full face doors and buy the Electric Valve, SuperValve so they are a direct replacement. The full face will hinge all the way so it will not snap. https://builtinvacuum.com/retail/shopretail.php?part_no=663HW,663HA,663HI. It comes as a full kit, sorry, but you only need the faceplate and this is how it is sold.

Sorry, the gaskets are not available to us for any parts sales.

Please read the text at the top of this page. If the backing plate behind the face plate fits the description then you can use any of the rectangle footprint inlets on the page https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html. Broan systems used a couple types of wall mounts but usually they used the standard ones so you have a lot of choices.

We don't have a cross reference for that. Please send us the brand of the vacuum or a photo and we'll let you know where to go. Hopefully it is still available. Many times older inlets can be replaced with new ones. Read the text at the top of the page here to see if that is an option https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html

You can put the Hose Cuff with Metal Ring on the end of your existing hose and use it in the new inlets. It is here https://builtinvacuum.com/parts/hose-parts.html. It is reverse threaded on the hose and may have some glue so pull hard and twist yours off, or cut the hose at the cuff and put on the new one. OR you can buy any of our hoses and or kits.

That is interesting. The way Hayden has four screws. You will have to take one off and see if there is a place to put two screws four inches apart and that the intake hole in the backing plate is 1-5/8" wide. Then you can use the Basic Inlets sold here.

Usually those are replaced with any of these https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html. The only issue is the 4 inches between the two screws. If you have 4 inches then you are good to go! The wire used for the old inlet is used for the new. The hose for the new inlets has to have metal on the end to work. All our hoses and kits fit your inlet and the new ones.

The regular screws are 1/8 Ovalhead Phillips screws 1.25 long. You may need them 2 long or longer. Be careful they are not too long or they will go past the backing plate and into the piping. If the head of the screw is showing on the front of the faceplate you can use nail polish or spray paint to color it the same as the valve.

If you have a Basic Inlet (no small HOLES above or below the main suction hole) then all you need to do is unplug the vacuum unit and remove the two screws on the inlet faceplate and pull/twist the faceplate off. The faceplate backside has two wires (like speaker wires) attached to screws. You will see how easy they connect and reconnect to the new faceplate. Which is, by the way, the only way to fix one that is sprung or looses its gasket. And you do have choices. All the Basic inlets will fit your wall connection. So pick the style and color that may compliment your home better.

Excellent question. You will have to apply something to the pins such as white lithium, WD40, or the stuff you'd put on car battery terminals. Something like that should do the trick. The inlets all have the same brass contacts.

Yes we sell them on at this link https://builtinvacuum.com/retail/shopretail.php?part_no=653NBG,653NW.

The single wire should have a pair of leads in it like a speaker wire has two wires in one. Separate the wires and attach one to each screw on the inlet. You don't have to worry about keeping any pattern for each inlet, just make sure the wire ends don't touch each other at the inlets when you put them on the screws.

Remove the outlet faceplate and touch the low voltage wires together. If it starts then replace the outlet. If it doesn't start it is possible that wire has been compromised, may have been detached somewhere along the line.