SuperValve Inlet Cover Kit Square Door Q&A

You can wire into either 15 or 20 amp. It only pulls 2 amps. Thanks for asking.

Yes, your system used an electrical inlet with two small holes above the main hole. So this would be the part you need.

Yes, the almond is much lighter than ivory.

Nutone is selling the same electric inlets we all sell. They are the same and work with Beam, standard 2" OD pipe and connectors, and the items we sell here such as the highly rated Stealth Kit (https://builtinvacuum.com/stealth-kit/).

The prongs that go into the wall valve are blackened from a short. The short is at one of the valves, at least. Look for blackening and replace that valve and clean up the cord prongs. Also, be sure to turn the hose off before unplugging as this will cause a short in all your valves.

There was a brown one but they discontinued it. You can buy a different color and spray paint it.

It is possible under the right circumstances. If your backing plate has gaps in it between the main hole and the screw hole then you or your electricia can run one of our ElectraValve Rough-in kits and use the ElectraValve cover plate. The romex with molded end provids the two prongs for an electric hose to plug into. The other end of the Romex can be ran to a J-box in the same stud bay or out of the stud bay (top or bottom) and tied into electricity. It is only pulls 2 amps for the power brush. For more direction please call us.

The CL-395RK is the ElectraValve product, not SuperValve and they are not compatible. So to finish your installation you need the ElectraValve inlet covers toward the very end of this page https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html.

It all depends on the backing plate in your wall. If you have openings above and below the main suction hole then you might be able to. You'd use the yellow ElectraValve romex with molded end and a new ElectraValve cover plate found down on the page here https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html.

Yes, you can put as many Inlet Valve Extensions as you need. Use long romex and low voltage wires and extremely long screws (which may be a problem if you can't find them). https://builtinvacuum.com/retail/shopretail.php?part_no=614 is the extension.

The kit has both the door with attached wire and the backing plate. We don't have them separately because they cost the same from our vendor, believe it or not.

Actually, the Electravalve rough-in kit and faceplate are easier to use in existing homes like yours. Find them under Electric Inlets.

Below the SuperValves are the ElectraValves, including the replacement covers. Please see them here https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html. You will want the white door #663CW. The plug and the low volt wire attach to it.

Any of the SuperValves are the correct replacements for Electrolux inlet valves 46599 and 46800. It is a direct replacement. Thank you for asking.

The SuperValve has the low voltage contacts within the large opening and then two small female contacts for the 120 volts. If you have that now then this is the correct replacement, they are industry standard and used by all brands. If yours says VacuValve anywhere on it then you have the less often, but similar valve, that is replaced with the ElectraValves and corresponding faceplate.

Since you don't need the electrical to work with it, all you need is a Basic Hose (https://builtinvacuum.com/hoses/basichoses.html). It will fit your wall inlet and the attachment end, the metal pipe end, will go directly into the hole of the wall end of your electric hose. If you needed to also extend the 110 volts you would need a new 25' Electric Hose and a couple #480AC adaptors (this will only work if your original hose is direct connect, not corded).

If you have the original Filtex inlets, that say "Filtex" on the door and start the vacuum when you open, then you can replace the inlets. However, the hose that fits these inlets is too large for standard inlets. The hose would need to be replaced as well. Low voltage inlets will activate the vacuum; electric inlets will have 120V inside them to power an electric carpet brush. You can view your options here with instructions on replacing the Filtex inlets, https://builtinvacuum.com/help/filtex/inlets.html#basic

Any of the SuperValves we sell will be required to finish the job. Wire nut the wires on the on the faceplate to the ones sticking out, tuck them in the cavity in the backing plate and you are good to go. As you noticed the backing plate is always included with the faceplate when buying. The faceplate is the expesive part therefore the backing plate is always included.

You will have to remove another inlet to see the wires or pattern they used. Or go to the collection unit and see the same thing there. Follow the same pattern.

UL doesn't require grounding for the valves. Tuck away the ground wire, there is not a ground wire on the wires attached to this inlet. For the wiring we strongly suggest a short run into any nearby junction. The intention is for one wire to entire the attached box for connections.

Hi, this valve can work for some but you actually have Basic Inlets since your hose is pigtail corded. See the inlets here for your replacement choices https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html.

All inlets have a control wire attached to the back of them. The wire goes back to the main vacuum unit where it is given some voltage. When the two leads of this wire touch each other the suction starts. They usually touch each other when a hose is inserted into the inlet. There are two small metal pin points inside. Some hoses have an on/off switch on the hose that activates them (the hose has control wire running up to the switch). The SUPERVALVE in question here also has an 110 volt connection above or below the main suction hole, depending on how it is mounted. The 110 volts gives power to an electrified hose and carpet brush. Inlets without the 110 volt connection can still accept an electric hose and brush because the compatible hose will have a pigtail cord that is plugged into a regular electrical socket nearby.

The faceplace has a neck that fits into the backing plate. The backing plate has a ring in the back of it that fits a 2 inch outer diameter central vacuum pipe into it. Hope that answers that. For existing walls you take the flange with three holes in it completely off the backing plate. There is a raised rim in the front of the plate that you cut to size in the wall. There are flanged at the top and bottom that will pin the wall between them and the faceplate when it is screwed on to the backing plate.

The door does not "pop off"; you will need to disconnect and reconnect both the high and low voltage wires. You can view a "How-To" video on replacing these valves by clicking here: https://builtinvacuum.com/cvtv/tips/replace-inlet-steps.html.

Yes the cover plate is included and it has the pigtail with short leads off the back side of the cover plate.