SuperValve Inlet Cover Kit Square Door Q&A

You can wire into either 15 or 20 amp. It only pulls 2 amps. Thanks for asking.

Yes, your system used an electrical inlet with two small holes above the main hole. So this would be the part you need.

Yes, the almond is much lighter than ivory.

Nutone is selling the same electric inlets we all sell. They are the same and work with Beam, standard 2" OD pipe and connectors, and the items we sell here such as the highly rated Stealth Kit (https://builtinvacuum.com/stealth-kit/).

The prongs that go into the wall valve are blackened from a short. The short is at one of the valves, at least. Look for blackening and replace that valve and clean up the cord prongs. Also, be sure to turn the hose off before unplugging as this will cause a short in all your valves.

There was a brown one but they discontinued it. You can buy a different color and spray paint it.

It is possible under the right circumstances. If your backing plate has gaps in it between the main hole and the screw hole then you or your electricia can run one of our ElectraValve Rough-in kits and use the ElectraValve cover plate. The romex with molded end provids the two prongs for an electric hose to plug into. The other end of the Romex can be ran to a J-box in the same stud bay or out of the stud bay (top or bottom) and tied into electricity. It is only pulls 2 amps for the power brush. For more direction please call us.

The CL-395RK is the ElectraValve product, not SuperValve and they are not compatible. So to finish your installation you need the ElectraValve inlet covers toward the very end of this page https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html.

It all depends on the backing plate in your wall. If you have openings above and below the main suction hole then you might be able to. You'd use the yellow ElectraValve romex with molded end and a new ElectraValve cover plate found down on the page here https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html.

Yes, you can put as many Inlet Valve Extensions as you need. Use long romex and low voltage wires and extremely long screws (which may be a problem if you can't find them). https://builtinvacuum.com/retail/shopretail.php?part_no=614 is the extension.

The kit has both the door with attached wire and the backing plate. We don't have them separately because they cost the same from our vendor, believe it or not.

Actually, the Electravalve rough-in kit and faceplate are easier to use in existing homes like yours. Find them under Electric Inlets.

Below the SuperValves are the ElectraValves, including the replacement covers. Please see them here https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html. You will want the white door #663CW. The plug and the low volt wire attach to it.

Any of the SuperValves are the correct replacements for Electrolux inlet valves 46599 and 46800. It is a direct replacement. Thank you for asking.

The SuperValve has the low voltage contacts within the large opening and then two small female contacts for the 120 volts. If you have that now then this is the correct replacement, they are industry standard and used by all brands. If yours says VacuValve anywhere on it then you have the less often, but similar valve, that is replaced with the ElectraValves and corresponding faceplate.

Since you don't need the electrical to work with it, all you need is a Basic Hose (https://builtinvacuum.com/hoses/basichoses.html). It will fit your wall inlet and the attachment end, the metal pipe end, will go directly into the hole of the wall end of your electric hose. If you needed to also extend the 110 volts you would need a new 25' Electric Hose and a couple #480AC adaptors (this will only work if your original hose is direct connect, not corded).

If you have the original Filtex inlets, that say "Filtex" on the door and start the vacuum when you open, then you can replace the inlets. However, the hose that fits these inlets is too large for standard inlets. The hose would need to be replaced as well. Low voltage inlets will activate the vacuum; electric inlets will have 120V inside them to power an electric carpet brush. You can view your options here with instructions on replacing the Filtex inlets, https://builtinvacuum.com/help/filtex/inlets.html#basic

Any of the SuperValves we sell will be required to finish the job. Wire nut the wires on the on the faceplate to the ones sticking out, tuck them in the cavity in the backing plate and you are good to go. As you noticed the backing plate is always included with the faceplate when buying. The faceplate is the expesive part therefore the backing plate is always included.

You will have to remove another inlet to see the wires or pattern they used. Or go to the collection unit and see the same thing there. Follow the same pattern.

UL doesn't require grounding for the valves. Tuck away the ground wire, there is not a ground wire on the wires attached to this inlet. For the wiring we strongly suggest a short run into any nearby junction. The intention is for one wire to entire the attached box for connections.

Hi, this valve can work for some but you actually have Basic Inlets since your hose is pigtail corded. See the inlets here for your replacement choices https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/basic.html.

All inlets have a control wire attached to the back of them. The wire goes back to the main vacuum unit where it is given some voltage. When the two leads of this wire touch each other the suction starts. They usually touch each other when a hose is inserted into the inlet. There are two small metal pin points inside. Some hoses have an on/off switch on the hose that activates them (the hose has control wire running up to the switch). The SUPERVALVE in question here also has an 110 volt connection above or below the main suction hole, depending on how it is mounted. The 110 volts gives power to an electrified hose and carpet brush. Inlets without the 110 volt connection can still accept an electric hose and brush because the compatible hose will have a pigtail cord that is plugged into a regular electrical socket nearby.

The faceplace has a neck that fits into the backing plate. The backing plate has a ring in the back of it that fits a 2 inch outer diameter central vacuum pipe into it. Hope that answers that. For existing walls you take the flange with three holes in it completely off the backing plate. There is a raised rim in the front of the plate that you cut to size in the wall. There are flanged at the top and bottom that will pin the wall between them and the faceplate when it is screwed on to the backing plate.

The door does not "pop off"; you will need to disconnect and reconnect both the high and low voltage wires. You can view a "How-To" video on replacing these valves by clicking here: https://builtinvacuum.com/cvtv/tips/replace-inlet-steps.html.

Yes the cover plate is included and it has the pigtail with short leads off the back side of the cover plate.

All the SuperValves are from Hayden and industry standard for all central vacuum installations for all brands. Use them and the backing plate (same plate used for all SuperValves) during your installation.

Wow, sorry to say, we are not able to buy those separately so you'll have to get the entire unit.

Yes, you have industry standard inlets. They are basic or electric. Electric have two small holes above the main hole. Take a look and compare yours. You can have any one of the Basic or Electric (shapes of doors and colors) once you discover which type you have.

Any number of vacuum port faceplates can be used on the MD, or any, system. If yours has 110 volts in it then it will say so somewhere, usually within the door. Start here for Basic and Electric faceplates https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets_shop.html. If you have more questions please let us know.

The gaskets are not sold separately and depending on how old yours is it may be different now. If you send us a photo of an intact one we can look through our warehouse for something to match.

If there is 120 volts, the inlet will state it somewhere. Maybe on the inside of the hinged door. If your hose is corded, you may be able to change it to direct connect. It depends on the hose manufacturer. We have connector kits for hoses that have a P in a circle found on the cuff of the wall end of the vacuum hose.

The installer may not have hooked up the voltage wire in the garage thinking it was going to be used only with a basic vacuum hose. A basic vacuum hose would start the suction with the two metal contacts in the neck. You can remove the faceplate and see what is going on with the wires, but chances are that the voltage wire was never ran, just the low voltage wire to trigger the suction.

Sorry, the old flush type are not available. Regulations caused a complete change to the recessed version years ago. You are looking at changing the hose (or modifying it), and replacing all the valves.

Yes, ours are Hayden Super Valves. Any of them would work as a replacement for the Nutone CI358 inlet. Unfortunely Hayden doesn't sell the faceplate alone. You have to buy the entire setup. It is the same way Nutone has to sell them.

Sorry to say but the SuperValve is sold to us as a complete inlet and backing plate.

If some of your inlets are working, then the hose is fine. There could be a break in the wires that connect the inlets to the unit, or the inlets themselves could be bad. Take the inlet out of the wall and connect the thin low voltage wires on the back of the inlet. If the vacuum turns on, then the inlet is bad. If touching the wires together does not start the vacuum, then there is a break in the wire that needs to be located.

On the Electric Inlet page (https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html) you will see the dimensions of the faceplate and towards the bottom you will see trimplates that go with the faceplate to make its footprint larger - nearly 6 inches high.

Sorry, it will need to be replaced. Thankfully there has been upgrades to the way these are made so that they last longer.

Yes, ANY system using electrified 1750 model inlets is using "SuperValves". These valves can be replaced with any version of the SuperValve found on this page https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets/electric.html

If the valves you have now measure 1.5 inches in diameter at the insertion hole and not 1.25 inches then you can use the Basic Inlets, not the Electric Inlets. https://builtinvacuum.com/inlets_shop.html. If they are 1.25 then there are no more replacement available on the market.

SuperValve is made in Canada. If yours looks anything like it or says 1750 then ANY SuperValve is the replacement - they've had the patent on it for 20 years. When you buy the SuperValve it comes with the face plate and screws, and the backing plate. It may say Use only SuperHose or Super Hose II but that can be ignored. All electric hoses use this SuperValve - it is the industry standard. All our direct connect electric hoses work with all the SuperValves.

If you really must use 2" ID SCH40 PVC, we recommend coming off the backing plate with a central vacuum fitting, some central vac pipe and then straight into the SCH40. The central vac pipe fits into the SCH40.

Yes, the SuperValves shown here are the industry standard ones used in all installations.

You can install the SuperValves "upside down" if you are installing the valves for the first time because the faceplate can only go in according to the backing plate's orientation. The full face plates really only look good if they open from the top, otherwise the springs are showing. If you are installing in a new home, existing construction with drywall up, then we suggest the Electravalve rough-in and attaching Electravalve faceplate. They are easier to deal with and you have more options for your 90-degree first turn.

The low voltage wires are shorted somewhere or the relay in the machine is bad. Disconnect the wires from the vacuum unit and see if it stays on - check any manual on/off switches on the unit. If it stays on with the wires in then the wire is compromised somewhere. Check where you worked and see if the wire has a nail through it anywhere.

The low voltage wire turns the suction on and should be connected to the two screws on the back of the faceplate. The black and white wires should be wire nutted to the wires coming off the faceplate. Black on black, etc. If you don't have black or white that is okay.