The motor on the brush will spin and make noise even if the belt or the motor belt gear is broken. If no noise, then the motor is broken or the electric hose is not bringing electricity to the brush. If you can, plug the brush cord directly into the wall inlet and be sure the brush neck is down. If it runs then the hose is at fault (the hose switch or the electric connection on the wall end).
When a belt is damaged, torn, or missing teeth, it sounds like it is running rough or thumping. Regardless, you should replace the belt and go from there.
This is usually a broken belt gear on the motor shaft. The gear is there, but no longer properly fastened to the motor arm. Hopefully, the product is under warranty. If not, it's best to replace the head. We suggest a better head such as the Stealth or Ace Electric Brush.
Yes, you can use a corded electric hose in a utility valve on the main power unit. You can also use an electrical extension cord, if needed.
When you have the brush turned on, check the main vacuum unit outside and see if it is running. If it is, then check the brush and the wand you're using for any clogs that are blocking air-flow. If the suction is not on, you need to determine if the hose or head is the issue.
The brush and/or wand is clogged or possibly, your suction is not functioning even though it sounds like it is on. Check for clogs and physically see if the main power unit is functioning as normal. If it is not, then your Hose Switch Assembly needs to be replaced.
Since it stalls when pulling the vacuum back on both style carpets, the problem is an electrical short. To find the short, turn the vacuum head on and hold it still as you tug on each connection (wand to head, wand to handle, cord connections too). You will find the spot where it is losing the connection and from there you will be able to either fix the issue or replace the parts.
If you are referring to an air-driven brush, the answer is yes. If this is an electric brush to an electric hose, the short answer is not always. As there are several factors/variations to consider in terms of compatibility, please contact one of our friendly customer representatives at 1(800) 997-2278 for further technical assistance. Your other option is to replace your existing cleaning tools/accessories with a new complete electric kit. They are compatible with AirVac systems and nearly all other brands of central vacuum systems.
Push in the sides of the top cover to pull it off. Under it are screws that will allow you to take the vacuum apart. Remove the top half from the bottom half by pulling them apart near the rear wheel. We have replacement CT600 belts.
You will need to replace the hose, there are no repair kits to repair the internal wiring of any electric hose.
Although it may sound like the suction is not working with the switch in that position, it is not. It is likely that you will need to replace the hose handle switch assembly. If the suction does work in the first switch position, there is a bigger problem. Please use our Troubleshooting Flowchart to help identify the issue along with some tips to help remedy the issue .
Please try to repeat this same problem. If you are able to repeat it, this means the four inlet valve electrical connections are all tied together into an electrical cord junction that has lost power or become unplugged. You'll have to trace one electrical wire back to find where/how they are set up to remedy this issue.
There is a short at the black pin connection. You will need a new Switch Assembly and to clean the blackened pins (or replace the power head cord - call us).
This usually indicates the hose has a short or the power nozzle is broken. Test the hose using a continuity tester or another vacuum head. We have Hose Troubleshooting Videos Here. If the hose has no issues, replace the power nozzle and perhaps the wands as well.
Either the power head or the hose has been compromised. If you have a 2-pin wall end hose, you can plug the power head cord directly into the inlet valve to see if it works. The hose is harder to troubleshoot unless you can test with a voltage meter or continuity tester. If you are able to test the hose in this manner, please view our Hose Testing Videos.
Which contact points are you measuring to get the 9.2V? For a low voltage (suction control) measurement, it should read over 20V, and 110V for high voltage. Most likely the molded diode fuse in the wall end pigtail or direct 2-pin connection is bad. You can replace these parts as long as the wall end of the hose has the letter P branded in a circle.
It is easy to extend a hose when you don't need a 110 volt connection to the powered vacuum head. Simply use any size Basic Hose and it slips right on to the hose handle end of the existing hose.
To properly remedy this, you will need to replace the inlet. The process is quick and easy, only held in by a couple of screws from the front. On the back side, just transfer the wires from the old inlet to the new one. Take a look at our inlet replacement video. A quick remedy that may work is to get a layer of super glue dry on the plastic end of the hose. It makes the hose a bit wider and tighter.
If your hose handle has no switch (on/off switch) on the handle, you should be able to screw the hose back into the cuff where it came out. Typically it is reverse threaded, so it will seem as though you are screwing it in the wrong way, Before you do that, apply a small amount of rubber cement to the hose end to help it stay in place. However, if your hose does have a switch at the handle, you will need to replace the entire hose.
If the switch is activating suction when pressed to one side but not the other, this indicates a bad switch that needs to be replaced.
Turn the vacuum head on and keep everything still. At each junction try to find the short by pulling, twisting, etc. If the short is where the vacuum handle connects to the power cord from the brush, you will have to replace the wiring harness inside the hose handle. We have some Hose Handle Wire Connection Parts for some vacuum handles. If you are able, please test the continuity of the power through the hose. Otherwise, you may need to replace the power cord running from the brush into the hose handle, or the power head itself, if everything else checks out.
To access this brush you need first remove the upper top of the vacuum. Squeeze in the sides of the headlight cover and lift this section off the top of the vacuum. Under it are two screws that, once removed, allow you to remove the entire upper half of the vacuum. Remove the roller and clean the ends really well. Another reason the reset pops is the motor may be bad. We sell replacement motors, new complete brushes, and more parts for it HERE.
As the lights are not pivotal to the functionality of your system, please disregard them and use our Troubleshooting Flowchart to isolate the issue with your central vacuum.
The suction is not working in that switch position, most likely. It sounds like it is, but that is just the noise of the vacuum head. You will need to replace the Switch Assembly in the hose handle.
If the whistle is coming from the hose, replacing the hose should fix this issue. However, if the whistling noise is coming from the motor, you will need to replace the motor to fix remedy this.
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