The motor on the brush will spin and make noise even if the belt or the motor belt gear is broken. If no noise, then the motor is broken or the electric hose is not bringing electricity to the brush. If you can, plug the brush cord directly into the wall inlet and be sure the brush neck is down. If it runs then the hose is at fault (the hose switch or the electric connection on the wall end).
When a belt is damaged, torn, or missing teeth, it sounds like it is running rough or thumping. Regardless, you should replace the belt and go from there.
This is usually a broken belt gear on the motor shaft. The gear is there, but no longer properly fastened to the motor arm. Hopefully, the product is under warranty. If not, it's best to replace the head. We suggest a better head such as the Stealth or Ace Electric Brush.
Yes, you can use a corded electric hose in a utility valve on the main power unit. You can also use an electrical extension cord, if needed.
When you have the brush turned on, check the main vacuum unit outside and see if it is running. If it is, then check the brush and the wand you're using for any clogs that are blocking air-flow. If the suction is not on, you need to determine if the hose or head is the issue.
The brush and/or wand is clogged or possibly, your suction is not functioning even though it sounds like it is on. Check for clogs and physically see if the main power unit is functioning as normal. If it is not, then your Hose Switch Assembly needs to be replaced.
Since it stalls when pulling the vacuum back on both style carpets, the problem is an electrical short. To find the short, turn the vacuum head on and hold it still as you tug on each connection (wand to head, wand to handle, cord connections too). You will find the spot where it is losing the connection and from there you will be able to either fix the issue or replace the parts.
If you are referring to an air-driven brush, the answer is yes. If this is an electric brush to an electric hose, the short answer is not always. As there are several factors/variations to consider in terms of compatibility, please contact one of our friendly customer representatives at 1(800) 997-2278 for further technical assistance. Your other option is to replace your existing cleaning tools/accessories with a new complete electric kit. They are compatible with AirVac systems and nearly all other brands of central vacuum systems.
Push in the sides of the top cover to pull it off. Under it are screws that will allow you to take the vacuum apart. Remove the top half from the bottom half by pulling them apart near the rear wheel. We have replacement CT600 belts.
You will need to replace the hose, there are no repair kits to repair the internal wiring of any electric hose.
Although it may sound like the suction is not working with the switch in that position, it is not. It is likely that you will need to replace the hose handle switch assembly. If the suction does work in the first switch position, there is a bigger problem. Please use our Troubleshooting Flowchart to help identify the issue along with some tips to help remedy the issue .
Please try to repeat this same problem. If you are able to repeat it, this means the four inlet valve electrical connections are all tied together into an electrical cord junction that has lost power or become unplugged. You'll have to trace one electrical wire back to find where/how they are set up to remedy this issue.
There is a short at the black pin connection. You will need a new Switch Assembly and to clean the blackened pins (or replace the power head cord - call us).
This usually indicates the hose has a short or the power nozzle is broken. Test the hose using a continuity tester or another vacuum head. We have Hose Troubleshooting Videos Here. If the hose has no issues, replace the power nozzle and perhaps the wands as well.
Either the power head or the hose has been compromised. If you have a 2-pin wall end hose, you can plug the power head cord directly into the inlet valve to see if it works. The hose is harder to troubleshoot unless you can test with a voltage meter or continuity tester. If you are able to test the hose in this manner, please view our Hose Testing Videos.
Which contact points are you measuring to get the 9.2V? For a low voltage (suction control) measurement, it should read over 20V, and 110V for high voltage. Most likely the molded diode fuse in the wall end pigtail or direct 2-pin connection is bad. You can replace these parts as long as the wall end of the hose has the letter P branded in a circle.
It is easy to extend a hose when you don't need a 110 volt connection to the powered vacuum head. Simply use any size Basic Hose and it slips right on to the hose handle end of the existing hose.
To properly remedy this, you will need to replace the inlet. The process is quick and easy, only held in by a couple of screws from the front. On the back side, just transfer the wires from the old inlet to the new one. Take a look at our inlet replacement video. A quick remedy that may work is to get a layer of super glue dry on the plastic end of the hose. It makes the hose a bit wider and tighter.
If your hose handle has no switch (on/off switch) on the handle, you should be able to screw the hose back into the cuff where it came out. Typically it is reverse threaded, so it will seem as though you are screwing it in the wrong way, Before you do that, apply a small amount of rubber cement to the hose end to help it stay in place. However, if your hose does have a switch at the handle, you will need to replace the entire hose.
If the switch is activating suction when pressed to one side but not the other, this indicates a bad switch that needs to be replaced.
Turn the vacuum head on and keep everything still. At each junction try to find the short by pulling, twisting, etc. If the short is where the vacuum handle connects to the power cord from the brush, you will have to replace the wiring harness inside the hose handle. We have some Hose Handle Wire Connection Parts for some vacuum handles. If you are able, please test the continuity of the power through the hose. Otherwise, you may need to replace the power cord running from the brush into the hose handle, or the power head itself, if everything else checks out.
To access this brush you need first remove the upper top of the vacuum. Squeeze in the sides of the headlight cover and lift this section off the top of the vacuum. Under it are two screws that, once removed, allow you to remove the entire upper half of the vacuum. Remove the roller and clean the ends really well. Another reason the reset pops is the motor may be bad. We sell replacement motors, new complete brushes, and more parts for it HERE.
As the lights are not pivotal to the functionality of your system, please disregard them and use our Troubleshooting Flowchart to isolate the issue with your central vacuum.
The suction is not working in that switch position, most likely. It sounds like it is, but that is just the noise of the vacuum head. You will need to replace the Switch Assembly in the hose handle.
If the whistle is coming from the hose, replacing the hose should fix this issue. However, if the whistling noise is coming from the motor, you will need to replace the motor to fix remedy this.
The gauge of wire used on the initial installation is usually the culprit. It needs to be at least 20 gauge (that is the standard installation). If it looks like phone wire, it will not able to carry enough voltage through the additional wire in the hose. The bright side is that the low voltage hose is better than basic hoses and will work with your system with it rotated in the wall valve to engage the system. You can either keep the hose or return it. There is another option of adding a Low Voltage Booster near your vacuum unit but that will cost more than the Low Voltage Hose.
This is a typical hose switch failure. If your hose handle is Gas-Pump or Pistol Grip style, with the letter P branded in the plastic molding of the wall end cuff of the hose, we offer the replacement Switch Assemblies (electrical components of your hose handle).
If your hose has no switch on the handle, then you can use Our Adapter. If it has a switch, see if you can shave a little plastic from the hose end.
Please clarify if your old hose's switch at one time was functional and stopped, which caused you to purchase a new hose. Also, please advise if there are two small metal contact points located either on top or bottom of the inside of the inlet valve. These would appear to be small metal dots or nubs, just inside the hole in the wall. If you do have these two contact points, please ensure when you insert the new hose, the tab is either in the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position. If the tab is in misalignment, it will render the on/off switch non-functional.
Several things can cause this. The best way to isolate the issue is to hold everything still, while on, and put stress on each joint or connection by pulling, pushing and twisting to see if the power becomes intermittent at any point. If it's at any point along the hose, we recommend replacing the entire hose. If it's at a connection, it could just need to have the Switch Assembly replaced.
The hose handle contains the switch assembly, if you notice the two pins from the power cord that plug into the hose handle are blackened, you will need to replace the Switch Assembly and then clean the blackened pins. If you believe it to be the fuse, that will be located in the wall end of the hose as a hidden molded in diode and the Replacement Options we offer are located on our website, but if it is bad it will not be cutting out, but not work.
Most likely you have debris built up around the brush ends that has worked its way into the bearings and causing friction. The increased stress on the motor may be damaging it and causing the intermittent power. It's best to replace the brush. Take a look at our Replacement Rugmaster Brush. You can view all other Electric Brush Options on our website.
If your suction stays on when the vacuum hose switch is off, it usually indicates a low voltage signal issue. In this instance, it is difficult to troubleshoot for a quick resolution. We recommend continuing to unplug the hose from the inlet valve to turn it off, until something fully goes wrong or it stops working completely.
There is a microswitch the neck triggers when in the upright position. It may be jammed. The switch can be accessed next to the motor near the neck of the brush. You will see a blue block, that is the microswitch. When you put the neck, slowly, into the upright position you should here a faint click before the neck snaps into the upright position. If you don't then it is jammed and can easily be cleaned out and resolved. It may also be the circuit board. If you are getting power to the circuit board but not out of the circuit board, this indicates a faulty board. If you are getting power through the circuit board, it indicates a bad motor.
More than likely the pile of carpet is too high for the brush to properly handle. First ensure the the carpet is allowed under warranty to be cleaned with a beater bar. Second, if it seems the carpet is just a bit too long, there are a few adjustments you can make to the Stealth Power Brush to help remedy this issue. Please let us know if it is high pile carpet or not by contacting one of our friendly customer service representatives.
The long end of the vacuum roller has hair and dirt packed into the bearing housing. Simply remove the 4 large screws, lift off the plate, lift up the roller brush (only the far end opposite the belt), remove the bearing housing, clean and replace brush back inside unit.
Please open the bleeder valve located on the hose handle metal stub tube. This will reduce the tension of the power head by allowing some suction to “escape” through the bleeder valve opening improving maneuverability. We also have a way to make the Stealth adjust higher. If the adjustment knob does NOT rotate 360 degrees, then remove the cover and cut the tab on the rotating plate. Now the Stealth should sit up higher on the carpet.
We don't recommend any lubricants in vacuum wall inlets. New Inlets or a New Hose End may be the best idea. Sometimes removing some plastic off the hose end works well.
There is no swivel on basic hoses. However,our Low Voltage Hose has a swivel and is non-electric. They don't have electricity but do have an on/off switch that takes the low voltage connection from the inlet to the hose handle. They are compatible with your system and you can view them on our website under our Low Voltage Hose Options. Upgrading to a low voltage hose is not expensive and is one of our all time customer favorites.
Please take a look at our Troubleshooting Videos for this hose. If you are not able to fully test it then call a Local Dealer to see if they have experience. If not, you can work with us for repairs. Buying a new Electric Hose is another option and a good one if the hose is over 8 years old.
It should spin at all times when connected to suction. It may need service or replacement. Turbo brushes can become jammed at the turbine. If you are unable to manually rotate the brush at all, it will indicate a jammed brush. You will need to take it apart and remove the jam to return it to normal functionality.
If you have a Vacuflo collection unit, reach up into the unit (bottom removed) and clean off the screen under the motor. One thing to do is put the Turbocat directly into the vacuum unit and see if it works. If it is not spinning fast, the Turbocat is clogged up, old, or needing repairs.
If you have to turn the hose in the inlet port for the suction to come on then most likely the on/off switch on your hose handle is bad and needs to be replaced.
That sounds like a motor is going bad. Eventually, it will stop turning on. If you slap the vacuum unit it may run longer. Use our Brand links and Motor Page to find the replacement and instructions. It is rarely an issue with the circuit board or relay. They will typically surge when going bad.
This could be one of several different issues from the hose to the unit. Follow our Troubleshooting Guide to help narrow down the problem.
It could be that the hose's 110 volt system has shorted out. Have someone run continuity tests on the hose to check it out. These hoses have a hidden diode fuse in the pigtail cord or two pin plug on the wall end of hose that can become faulty and can be replaced.
It could be several things. The belt missing a tooth is most common, then followed by the motor or bearings going bad. After five years it may be time to upgrade and replace.
Unfortunately, we do not carry any type of repair kit for the collapsing of your wand. Our only option would be to recommend a replacement wand, which you can view our options on our Extension Wand page on our website.
Try cleaning both sides of the wand connection and reattaching. Dust can act like bearings and prevent a solid connection. You can also consider changing your sectional wands to a One-piece Telescopic Wand.
The diode is molded into the two pin plug (or the end of the 8ft pigtail cord depending on the type of electric hose you have). A continuity test is needed to see if it, the wiring in the hose, or the hose handle switch is the issue. The plug (or cord) and hose handle switch can all be replaced on our Hose Parts page.
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