TroubleShooting Inlet Valve Issues Q&A

The Intake and Exhaust pipes are switched. Please connect the intake pipe to the port where the air is moving inwards and the exhaust pipe to where the air is moving out.

It is normal to hear a small amount of air escaping. If it is more than a small amount, you may need to replace your hose or inlets. You can try removing your inlet valve from the wall and wrap the back end with two rounds of electrical tape to form a tight seal and then reinsert it in the wall.

To directly isolate low voltage leads alone (disconnect all auxiliary switches) means to ensure the low voltage wires are not being run through a manual on/off switch within the unit. The switch could be the source of a short. Also, it is not uncommon to have a shorted relay. You can view replacement relay switches/circuit boards on our website, if deemed necessary. When the low voltage wires are removed from the equation, it usually indicates a bad relay.

Most systems do not start when the valve door is opened. Having the type that do start when opened can be a concern, especially when children are involved. As there are currently no valves that have child-safety locks built in, the question for your system is if you can convert them to the type of inlets that do not activate until a hose is inserted in the correct position within the inlet. It is possible that you may have the type of inlet valves that are not easily replaceable. If the suction hole in the backing plate (after you remove the inlet cover plate) is 1-5/8 you should be able to change them out. We recommend contacting a Local Dealer to assist you and viewing our Replacement Inlet videos on our website.

Unfortunately, that is one of the more difficult tasks to accomplish with a central vacuum system. It is too involved to attempt to explain on this platform, but we do have a brief overview with our Kenmore Inlet Valve video. You can review this video and decide if you would like to tackle this project yourself or involve a local dealer to assist.

If the backing plate hole diameter is 1-5/8 and the mounting screws are about 4 apart on center, you can use any of our Basic Inlet Valve Option. There are no blank inlets for undesired valves as these still need to seal under pressure to allow the system to work properly.

We provide an Inlet Valve Extension for this exact issue. It bridges the gap between the inlet neck and the backing plate in the wall. If it is too long, it can be cut. If it is not long enough, multiple extensions can be used. Please note that the inlet screws may need to also be longer, but you will need to source those at a local hardware store.

We have solutions for certain electric hose problems, but it could be that the issue is at the connection at the handle to vacuum head cord because your vacuum head did start at times. To diagnose this, please hold the hose very still (while turned on) and manipulate/wiggle/turn/pull each connection point to find the location of the short. The fuse in the hose is in the wall end of the hose, molded into the electrical plug. If possible, test continuity under the wall end cuff as indicated on our Electric Hose Troubleshooting Videos.

The aerodynamics of your central vacuum system are the source of this sound. The pressure has changed and blended in such an alignment with the components of the air travel to make this noise. Please try changing your filter to change the alignment and resolve this issue.

When you plug the hose into any wall inlet, be sure the plastic rib separating the two metal halves is either at the 12 o'clock or 6 o'clock position. This positioning will allow you to control the suction at the switch on the end of the hose. What it is doing, is separating the low voltage connection. When you rotate the hose end in the wall valve, the suction starts when both contacts inside the valve rest on metal plates on the end of the hose, or in such a position the on/off switch functions as normal.

All you need to create a tight seal at the pipe joints is a small amount of PVC cement. You can typically obtain this cement from your neighborhood hardware store.

Please short the wires or connections for the wires at the unit itself to be sure the transformer and power are fully functional. If they are functioning as normal, double check the connections at each inlet. As you stated the wires can go on either screw in the inlet, just ensure they are separated. Sometimes they are daisy chained so keep an eye out for double (or sometimes triple) wire leads at one inlet.

This may require the use of the VacPan Repair kit to tighten this product and keep this issue from continuing.

To get started, remove the face place and short the contacts/wire (not 110 volt, but the low voltage wire that looks like speaker or telephone wire) to see if the vacuum starts. If so, then replace the inlet faceplate. If not, you will need to locate the break in the low voltage line in your home. You may need to contact a Local Central Vacuum Service Center for assistance.

Start by removing the inlet face plate from the wall and short the low voltage wires (not the high voltage - 110V wires - if any). This short should cause the system to activate. If it does, then you need to replace the inlet valve face plate to resolve the issue. Alternatively, if the vacuum starts suctioning when the low voltage wires are shorted, it could be that there is not enough power to go through the hose to the activating switch on the hose handle. If the inlet is located in a position relatively far from the unit, it could indicate a resistance issue. For this problem, we have a low voltage booster box you can install next to the vacuum unit. If it doesn't start when shorted, it indicates a break in the low voltage wiring running along the piping in your walls. The only way to resolve this issue is to utilize radio frequency components to bypass the need for low voltage wiring. The radio frequency components will send a signal directly to the unit to start the flow of suction, rather than the connection of the low voltage wire at the inlet valve sending the same signal for the same purpose.

That sounds like you have a clog in your line. Please follow Solution #3 on our Troubleshooting Flowchart to resolve this issue.

First, remove the faceplate and touch the LOW VOLTAGE wires together. The suction should start from these wires touching. If not, follow the wire back to where it is connected to the other wires. If you cannot follow the wires back, you will need to purchase a remote control unit for this particular inlet to bypass the non-functional low voltage wires and activate the system. Otherwise, you will have to continue to turn on the unit manually when using this particular inlet.

If the noise occurs without a hose being plugged in at the wall, and is not coming from any specific inlet cover, it narrows the noise to being sourced at the pipes. The balance of the air and components of central vacuum system arrange to create harmonics. This is extremely rare, but can happen. Typically, relieving some air at the canister by opening the utility valve a small amount or by changing the filter will stop the noise.

Low voltage wiring, which looks like speaker or telephone wire, will not shock you. If you see Romex or regular home wiring in a thick sheath, you will need to turn off the power to that section of the house to avoid the risk of electrocution.

First, ensure that the hose is in the correct position in the inlet. If your hose has a cord, the portion where the cord connects to the hose should be pointed straight up or down. If this is all in proper alignment, it usually indicates a bad switch or short in the hose itself. If it is a bad switch assembly, we do have replacement 3-Way Switch Assemblies for a gas-pump or pistol-grip style hose handles. Please note: our replacements will only work for hoses that have the letter P branded within a small circle on the plastic wall end cuff.

Yes, vacuum pressure was created in the sealed system. It is hard to know what happened but continue to use the vacuum as normal and see if there is less suction or any symptoms. In the future, please let air into the system before turning it on.

If the noise is not coming from the main unit, it could be coming from the pipes. Typically, it will be an inlet valve door(s) that is not sealing properly. Each valve door needs to rest flush on its faceplate. When a faceplate is over tightened the door will not be flush, causing this noise. Loosen the screws on the front of the inlet valve to allow the faceplate to rest parallel to the wall. If that doesn't remedy the issue, try looking from the side of each valve to see if any appear bowed and remedy those inlets to resolve the issue.

Unfortunately, at this time no inlet plate cover manufacturer supplies the replacement gaskets for inlet valves.

Are you able to run a continuity test to be sure the wires do not have a break in them at the valves where they are nonfunctional? If there is continuity, you'll need to boost the signal to these wires by using a low voltage booster box at the main vacuum unit. The thin wire is not managing to send the signal successfully on its own. Use the Low Voltage Booster Box and the same wire pairs at each inlet valve to remedy this issue. If there is no continuity, you will know there is a break in the wire and will need to utilize a remote control frequency bypass to resolve this problem.

Providing that the switch at one point was fully functional, it appears that it is now faulty and will need to be replaced. If your hose has the letter P branded within a small circle on the plastic wall end cuff, we offer compatible replacement 3-Way Switch Assemblies for a gas-pump or pistol-grip style hose handle.

You first need to purchase Basic Wall Inlets for the two without them. The reason your central vacuum has such low suctioning power is because of all the air escaping from these open valves (or inlet covers ).

The problem is not with the hose, but instead with your motor. You can find the Beam 225A Replacement Motor as well as Motor Replacement Instructions on our website.

If your inlets have only one contact inside the main hole, then the switch on the hose cannot operate. If your inlets have two contact points inside the main hole, then the switch should operate just fine. If it is not turning off when the hose is removed, there could be another wiring issue. Follow our troubleshooting guide to narrow down the problem at Troubleshooting Flowchart.

To get started, short the contacts at the unit where the wires are connected. If your unit activates, then there is a broken wire(s) somewhere in the home. If your unit does not activate, then your transformer is not functioning properly and should be replaced.

This is generally an indication of a clog in the pipeline. If the pipeline cannot be accessed, you will need to contact a Local Service Center to help locate and remove the obstruction.

This issue is generally caused by a faulty lever or moving parts within the VacPan. We have VacPan Repair Kits that make the repair job easy and saves you money. The VacPan should pull straight out of the cabinet, AFTER you access and remove the PVC elbow. Access is from above through a cutout in the cabinet base, or underneath by a cutout access.

The way air rushes into a VacPan can be quite loud depending on the power of your central vacuum system. Unless there is another inlet valve open, all the air will be forced into that VacPan and be loud in this case.

First, check the wire connection behind the dust pan to ensure the wires are connected. If that looks good, touch the two wires together. If the vacuum turns on, the dust pan has failed and needs to be replaced. If the vacuum does not turn on, the low voltage wire in the wall have been compromised and you'll need to locate the problem within the wall or contact a Local Service Center for assistance.

The hum is not a problem. As the lines lose pressure, a valve may open a bit and the gasket may vibrate. If the valve was vibrating or whistling while the system was on, then that would be a pressure leak. Either way, it is solved by tightening or loosening it the screw on the faceplate. The goal is get the lid flush with the faceplate. Pushing on the center of the faceplate may help too.

The consistency of the issue indicates condensation in the pipeline. The vacuum pipe is going from extreme temperatures in the basement, attic or where ever the pipe is located. Insulating the outside of the pipe can help decrease condensation, the more insulation the better.

The four smaller wires are all low voltage. They didn't run romex, but they should have in order to utilize the inlets. All the wires you see need to attach to the two screws on the faceplate. Keep paired wires separate. Ignore the black and white 110 volt wires on the faceplate, as 110 volt wire was not run through your system.